1) THE MAGENTA CONCUBINE GOWN
We had seen KTH wearing this attire during the opening sequence and the previews already, however, it wasn’t until episode 14 when we finally got the chance to watch this hanbok as a part of JOJ’s vast sukwon wardrobe as she opts for this dress to wear during the trip of the royal court to the countryside so JOJ can showcase her radiant beauty in front of LS not caring for the gossips swirling about her across the country that she is a femme fatale who seduced the king.
This stunning piece is made of contrasting colours – The first being the black chima (long skirt), which is an unsual choice considering that skirts were usually made of very bright colours and in the previews lacks any ornaments.
However, there is added a silver floral pattern in the actual drama.
The second one is a a deep magenta dangui (originally a jacket of ceremonial dresses) embroidered with intricate patterns of white flowers bound together with a carribean green otgoreum (cloth string) and the traditional pendant known asnorigae – only members of royal family like princesses and queens could wear golden geumbak (golden embroidery) on their danguis.
In both cases her coiffure is arranged into a jjokjin meori hairstyle (쪽진 머리) with braided hair brought back and tied into a chignon which is fastened by a different bongjam (phoenix binyeo) each time, which was a more luxurious binyeo worn by royals and brides on their wedding day and dwikkoji (smaller hairpins) of various shapes.
These ornaments helped to maintain the hairstyle and served as indicators of one’s social status depending on their materials, shapes, sizes etc,.
The last hairpin is again in both case a different golden phoenix-shaped cheopji (an ornament for the top of one’s head worn by queens, married princesses, royal concubines, court ladies and upon occassion by wives of high ranking governmental officials as well).
JOJ also wears a black garakji (a double ring worn only by married women) on her middle finger.
JOJ’s norigae brooch
This gown truly represents JOJ’s extraordinary attribute of radiance which earned her the famous name of Jang Hee Bin (Jang=her surname, Hee=radiant, Bin=the highest level among the concubine ranks).
Jang Sukwon, the future Jang Hee Bin and Queen Bu Ok
2) THE LOTUS CONCUBINE GOWN
This hanbok remains the only dress that we had seen in the promos and previews, however, that we have never managed to spot in the entire drama despite the fact that the gown was was supposed to appear during episode 6 or 7 when Chi Soo tried to stop JOJ from entering the palace as a gungnyeo (a palace maid) thus becoming forever lost to him as the palace maids belonged to the king and were not allowed to lay with other men.
Well, let’s hope the production will release the Director’s cut edition to rectify this situation.
Her hair is yet again arranged into the jjokjin meori (in the actual drama she wore adaenggi meori since it was prior her palace entrance) which reveals her status of a married women.
The gorgeous bongjam , that I would die for to have, fixes her chignon or the jjok in Korean together with dwikkoji and the phoenix cheopji (another of my favourites! Pity that Minwhee hasn’t released the official photo of it, as well) is placed on top of her head.
Beside the lotus flower embroidery the imperial red jeogori (upper garment) is decorated with end sleeves and dongjeong (white collar) made of white silk, there is also a turqoise otgoreum (cloth string).
The chima is made of another shade of deep purple and is complemented by stunning golden-black-and-red norigae (hanbok pendant) which serves both as an ornament and a good luck charm.