3) THE GREEN CONCUBINE GOWN
This particular attire is characterized by its striking green hangui (an upper garment of royalty) decorated with prominent embroidery of magnolia flowers and bound with a contrasting black otgoreum (a cloth string) on which is hung a norigae (hanbok pendant) that iseither an opulent wine bunch or intricate flower petal.
The white kudong (ending of sleeves) decorate the sleeves and perfect match the donjeong akat the white fabric that trims the git(collar).
The hanbok has appeared in two variations so far – During the first promos it was shown with a black chima (skirt) almost identical with the one worn to THE MAGENTA CONCUBINE GOWN. We could see the gown in episode 1 during the future “flashback” and later in episode 15, too. This time, however, the black chima was replaced with a more eye-catching red one with geumbak (the golden embroidered trim) called seuran chima that better complements the colouring of her hangui and coiffure.
The hairstyle is again a jjokjin meori worn by older or married women and concubines with her chignon adorned and fastened by a jam (hairpin for high born ladies) and flower-like dwikkoji (smaller hairpins) and a golden-red cheopji (hair accessory worn on parted hair of older and married ladies).
The jam is a phoenix-shaped hairpin called bongjam which was used for princesses and concubines whereas queens often wore a yongjam (dragon-shaped hairpin).
Just as every aspect of the life in the era, the accessories of the Joseon Dynasty had also been influenced by the Confucianism ideals, therefore wearing of earrings and necklaces by women was basically outlawed just as was the wearing of rings by men. This was largely because they symbolized vanity and profligacy and as the philosophy found it unseemly to present one’s wealth in such an obvious manner.
That’s why women improvised and basically transformed the little trinkets of everyday use into decorative pieces of beauty that represented their style, social standing, way of life and completed the simple elegance of hanbok.
So we can see Jang Ok Jung sporting countless norigae of various shapes, materials and size which were originally meant as good-luck charms and rings that show her status of either single or married woman.
4) THE FLOWER NORIGAE GOWN
It’s the first dress that we see JOJ wearing as a young maiden therefore she doesn’t wear a jjokjin meori hairstyle but a daenggi meori which was designated specifically for young and unmarried girls.
Her hair is adjusted in a braid adorned by a daenggi (ribbon) and decorated on sides with dwikkojis (smaller hairpins) plus there is a baetssi daenggi of red and silver placed on top of her head (a variation of cheopji for unmarried women).
The chima made of sapphire blue is again in perfect contrast with the beige flower-embroidered jeogori.
The upper garment is bound together with striking red otgoreum and the beautifully intricate norigae (hanbok pendant) serves together with the dongjeong (white removable collar) and kutdongs (end sleeves) as the ultimate finishing touch to this exquisite gown that incorporates all the trends favoured by the young Joseon ladies.