5) THE HOTHOUSE GOWN
JOJ’s hair is yet again arranged into a daenggi meori hairstyle designated specifically for young and unmarried girls. It is adjusted into a braid adorned by a red daenggi (a ribbon) with a deep purple baetssi daenggi placed on top of her head (a variation of cheopji for unmarried women).
The chima made of a radiant red colour is complemented with a deep magenta jeogori.
The upper garment consists of many details – an outline flower embroidery which is in stark contrast to the fussy cloth DP’s fiance prefers, a distictly green otgoreum that ties the flaps together, an opulent norigae (hanbok pendant), the dongjeong (white removable collar) and kutdongs (end sleeves) .
We can see her to hold a brown jangot ( a long coat for women to cover their faces in front of the foreign men) but she has actually never put it on.
It’s no wonder JOJ wore this gown to placate her customers after the disasterous fashion show. It showcases all her considerable skills as the best fashion designer in the capital and serves to advertise her work to many potential buyers.
6) THE VIOLET FASHION SHOW GOWN
The dress that JOJ wore during the infamous fashion show, however, before Lady Jo went postal she was enjoying a huge success, so let’s take a look at the hanbok the Joseon Stella McCartney wore on the catwalk, shall we ?
A simplified daenggi meori hairstyle without a baetssi daenggi this time is adorned by a golden-black daenggi (ribbon) and a single but prominent flowers-and-leaf dwikkoji (smaller hairpin) .
The black chima with a single golden strip perfectly suits the deep violet jeogori bound together with an unusual two-coloured otgoreum. The beautiful norigae (hanbok pendant), the dongjeong (white removable collar) and white kutdongs (end sleeves) top the already splendid garment.
At the end of the fashion show JOJ opts for a lillac durumagi (an overcoat) to complete the look . So the both parts would hold together the coat is tied together with a black jaejodae ( a cord ried around the waist). This original creation is, however, some kind of a fusion because the durumagi usually doesn’t have the jaejodae which was used to tied the men clothes.
This willingness to experiment is surely one of the reasons why JOJ’s designs became so popular with the upper class of the Joseon society despite her humble beginnings.