THE JOSEON FASHION SHOW – LEE SOON EDITION PART 1

1) THE SILVER CHRYSANTHEMUM HANBOK
image
For his incognito trips outside the palace walls LS choses a less formal attire typical for young Joseon aristocrats. The part we can’t really see is a jeogori (a jacket)with two fronts that are bound together with a strap but unlike the ones worn by women, men’s jeogori is longer reaching the waist. The legs are coverd by trousers called baji which are tied with a daenim (another strap) on top of the boseons(white socks).
image
The piece of clothing with the wide sleeves is a chinese purple dopo (an overcoat) which can be worn by itself, however, LS put a blueberry sleeveless vest with intricate embroidery of silver flowers and dongjeong (white collar) called dapho that is again bound together with an otgoreum. The dopo and the dapho are fixed with a black jaejodae (a cord tied around the waist).
image
His feet are covered by taesahye (low shoes used by noblemen since they were so expensive) made of animal skin, lined with skin and fur inside.
image
As a mature man LS has his hair pulled into a sangtu (a topknot) on the top of his head. There is also a mangeon (a headband) with two gwanjas (little ornaments) placed near his ears which keep the hairstyle fixed. The coiffure is  complemented by a gat (a hat) with a gatkeun (string of gemstones added by members of nobility to show their station). I’ve noticed that all LS’s hanboks use the blue colour to some degree with various flowers and plants usually adorning his vest – I wonder whether despite his comments to JOJ about his superficial fashion knowledge he is a closet fashionista at heart 

image

2)THE GONRYONGPO OF THE CROWN PRINCE
image
The gonryongpo is an everyday attire for the king, crown prince and his first son (the future crown prince), however, the identity of the wearer is crucial and makes for various distinctions. One of them is the colour – while the robe can be made of various colours, red is strictly for the king’s use. Another difference is the dragon emblem (bo) – The monarch’s dragon is 5-toed (ohjoeryongbo), the crown prince’s 4-toed (sajoeryongbo) and his son’s 3-toed (samjoeryongbo), however, I’m afraid there is a mistake on this particular robe because no matter how I look there are always 5 toes on every of the 4 dragons that grace the splendid apparel  .
The jaded waistband around LS’s midsection is called gakdae. The robe is comlemented by hwas (boots) and a black ikseongwan (crown worn by kings and crown princes).
image
Sources: Blog Naver, SBS official website, google images, http://www.han-style.com, thetalkingcupboard.wordpress.com, http://eng.expo2012.kr, Baidu forums, wikipedia
Advertisements

2 comments

  1. Hello achillesbriseis,

    I love the work you have done. Thank you for making your research available to others!

    I would like to ask you about the men’s vest that you are calling a jeonbok. According to all the other sources I have read a jeonbok does not overlap and does not tie with an otgoreum.
    What you are calling a jeonbok in this post seems to be called a “dapho”.

    This article shows a dapho and a jeonbok side-by-side: http://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Culture/view?articleId=114980

    And in the post “Traditional Korean Clothing: Kdrama Style (Part 2)” over on The Talking Cupboard website they also explain the same.

    In the online Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture in the article Shamanic Garb 무복(Mubok) Jeonbok is discribed as, “Jeonbok is a vest coat, without sleeves or lapel, and with slits on the side and back center.”

    So, I’m left scratching my head a bit and wanted to ask you for some clarification if possible.
    Thanks!
    Zelda

    1. Thank you for your comment, Zelda! I appreciate it very much and thank you for notifying me about the discrepancy. I’m afraid that’s I’ve have written the post quite some time ago and didn’t return to my research ever since. Obviously, there weren’t that many English sources 2 years ago and most one them I found didn’t have such a diverse differentiantion of the men’s robes. The interest in the Joseon culture and fashion caused my articles and exhibition which reveal more about it, that’s why Thetalkingcupboard has just recently posted a brand new and updated post on Joseon clothing despite already writing posts about the same type of clothing several times before. I remember that when I started researching and writing about Joseon fashion I used her amazing blog as one of the referential sources but then when I digged deeper I found new articles on museum websites that stated something different or more conretely. Just like TTC, I definitely need to make some updates in my posts and bring them up to date with the new sources (I’ll try to make the dapho correction as soon as possible and I’ve been planning to update some posts with new informations I found), though, right now my interests and addictions lie elsewhere (I’m in a dire need of some epic sageuk that would spark my re-ignate my interest in JF again, my hopes are on King’s Face starring Seo In Guk and directed by the PD of the brilliant Bridal Mask).
      Thank you again for bringing this to my attention and for your insightful comment. If you find more inconsistencies let me known, I’d like to make my posts as accurate as possible 🙂
      Have a nice day 🙂
      Briseis

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: