3) THE BLUE GONRYONGPO OF THE KING
Sangbok is called the ordinary business wear of kings and court officials which composes of a headdress, overcoats, belts, boots and special embroidered symbols. The headpieces and emblems differed according to the wearer’s rank – a king together with the crown prince and his son wore ikseongwan and gonryongpo also known as yongpo or mangpo with dragon symbols whereas the governmental officials opted for a samo (black silk crown) and a robe known as a dalryeongpo.
The gonryongpo is widely known as an everyday attire for the king, crown prince and his first son (the future crown prince), however, the identity of the wearer is crucial and makes for various distinctions. It was introduced from the Ming Dynasty in 1444, the 26th years of King Sejong for the first time and eventually adjusted to Korean customs.
One of them is the colour – The gonryongpo comes in various colours, however, red or scarlet is for the king’s use only but it doesn’t mean that other colours were excluded from the king’s yongpo wardrobe.
Another difference is the round dragon emblem (bo) sewn on the arms, the chest and the back – The monarch’s dragon is 5-toed (ohjoeryongbo), the crown prince’s 4-toed (sajoeryongbo) and his son’s 3-toed (samjoeryongbo). The gonryongpo has a round collar called dannyeong
Under the his gonryongpo LS wears a durumagi (an overcoat) over a set of simple jeogori and baji. The jaded waistband around LS’s midsection is called gakdae.
The robe is comlemented either by heukhwa (specifically worn by the king) or mokhwa (boots typical for officials).
His hair is adjusted into a sangtu (a topknot) on the top of his head that is covered by a sangtugwan ( a small crown that helps to maintain the topknot) with a pin called a donggot. There is also a manggeon (a headband) with two gwanjas (little ornaments).
For official meetings and purposes LS uses a black ikseongwan (crown worn by kings and crown princes) to cover the whole hairstyle. When the king wears the black crown with yongpo his attire is then also known as ikseongwanpo.
4) THE UNDERCOVER BLUE HANBOK
For his incognito trips outside the palace walls LS choses a less formal attire typical for young Joseon aristocrats. The part we can’t really see is a jeogori (a jacket) with two fronts that are bound together with a strap but unlike the ones worn by women, men’s jeogori is longer reaching the waist. The legs are coverd by turquoise trousers called baji which are tied with a daenim (another strap) on top of the boseon (white socks).
The piece of clothing with the wide sleeves is a light blue dopo (an overcoat) which can be worn by itself, however, LS put a blueberry sleeveless vest, with intricate embroidery of silver patterns and red stripes around his neckline, called dapho that is again bound together with an otgoreum. The dopo and the dapho are fixed with a wide waistband and a lilac jaejodae(a cord tied around the waist).
His shoes are difficult to identify ’cause I can’t any good shot of them, however, they’re either taesahye (low shoes used by noblemen since they were so expensive)made of animal skin, lined with skin and fur inside or heukhye (worn by scholars and high class men as their daily footwear) made from leather and fleece and probably all black .
The coiffure is complemented by a gat (a hat) adorned with an ivory ornament in the middle, this time, however, without a gatkeun (string of gemstones added by members of nobility to show their station) to better maintain his undercover identity.
Sources: Blog Naver, SBS official website, google images, http://www.han-style.com/english/hanbok/royal.jsp,
thetalkingcupboard.wordpress.com, http://eng.expo2012.kr, Baidu forums, wikipedia, http://www.kook-hyang.com/,