7) THE PRIVATE CHAMBER ATTIRE
Admittedly, one of my favourite LS’s get-ups, if not the ultimate favourite. He often wears this attire when he’s meeting with family members and ministers in private or going out on trysts/rendezvous with JOJ.
The most prominent piece is definitely the blue dragon robe which must be a design specifically created for the purposes of the drama ’cause there is no such type of traditional men clothing in Korea.
The creation seems to be a mash-up of various garments worn by Joseon men like durumagi, dopo and many others.
However, the most obvious inspiration came probably from the gongryongpo (dragon robe worn only by kings and crown princes) with its dragon emblems (yongbo) on the chest and arms, only this time embroidered directly on the robe with a golden thread.
The overcoat itself is made of an exquisite fabrics decorated by gorgeous floral and butterfly patterns.
The robe has slits on the sides like a dopo nevertheless it lacks an otgoreum (a cloth strap) typical for most of the upper garments/overcoats and is often tied together by a loose cord string ended by a decorative red tassel or left open. The tassel is sometimes being adorned by a bead.
Another golden and intricate ornament is added on the sides of the opening.
Yet, we could also see the robe being fastened by a waistband not unlike a gugunbok’s gwangdae (a wide cloth belt) which is tied together at the back.
The sleeves decorated by golden dragon symbols are something between the narrower sleeves of a durumagi and the winglike sleeves of a dopo.
LS wears it either over a white durumagi with an embroidered git or a simple black one.
Lee Soon wearing the blue overcoat with a white durumagi
Lee Soon wearing a black juui under the blue overcoat
Under the juui (durumagi) Lee Soon wears another piece of garment – jeogori.
The robe is complemented by boseon (white socks) and hwas (boots), specifically worn by a king called heukhwa (black ceremonial shoes).
They were very expensive, boot-shaped, cold and water resistant footwear favored by the hightest ranked men of the Joseon Dynasty. However, the king’s boots used to be higher and thicker than official’s mokhwa and decorated with red cloth edging along the scams, toecaps, and insteps and a wider one along the top edge.
His hair are pulled up into a sangtu (topknot) fastened by a small coronet known as sangtugwan which traditionally composes of three parts.
They are a te which surrounds the topknot, a dari which is attached to the front inside and the back inside of the te and finally a jamdo that fastens the cap to the head.
During the press conference YAI wore a green panji (a single ring), however, we haven’t had a possibility to see LS with a ring in the actual drama and I doubt we will since it had been frowned upon by society for men to wear rings.
Blog Naver, SBS official website, google images,
King’s Costume by Doh-Ol Kim, Young-oak,