THE JOSEON FASHION SHOW – JEWELRY & ORNAMENTS SPECIAL EDITION PART 8 – DAENGGI

7) DAENGGI

Probably one of the most well-known hair ornaments worn in sageuk, daenggi (댕기) is a traditional ribbon made of fabric and used to tie and decorate braided hair. According to historical records, maiden bound their hair at the back into braids already in Baekje period. The main reason being that the beliefs of Confucianism didn’t allow them to cut their hair as it was a gift given to them by their parents.However, don’t think that daenggi is limited for women’s use, the Joseon men, particularly young boys, wore it, too, even though the fabrics and colours differed.People usually connect the ribbon with the daenggi meori haistyle but it’s been also added to other haistyles such as jjokjin meori or keun meori to name the most popular.There are many types of daenggi which evolved throughout the history on Korean peninsula. The material, lenght, colour and decorations depend on the purpose, age, gender and social status of the wearer.Among others, tteoguji daenggi, maegae daenggi, doturak daenggi, and deurim daenggi are used for ceremonial purpose. Next there were jebiburi daenggi, doturank daenggi, jjok daenggi, and malttuk daenggi. On the other side, negadak daenggi and patip daenggi were used by gungnyeo or court ladies of the Joseon Dynasty.

APDAENGGI (front ribbons) 앞댕기

As one of the ceremonial ribbons, it was worn in combination with doturak daenggi by a bride on her wedding day together with her wedding dress (wonsam or hwarot) but with other ceremonial dresses, it was worn alone. The ribbons were decorated with intricate patterns and symbols embroidered on a black silk background. The embroideries include lotus blossoms, sipjangsaengmun (ten immortal symbols) and supamun (wave-pattern). It was draped over both ends of the a long binyeo and hung in front. 
DEURIM DAENGGI (front ribbons) 드림댕기
Basically, they were decorated and used in the same way as apdaenggi. The difference is the presence of the little beads or pearls that are placed at each end of the deurim daenggi.
 
DOTURAK DAENGGI 도투락 댕기
This enormous and wide ribbon hung from the nape of the neck down the back of one’s wedding dress. The bride had her hair arranged into a sushik hairstyle which was decorated with a long binyeo, doturak daenggi, apdaenggi and a jokduri or a hwagwancrown. These satin hair ribbons usually came in two colours; black and red, and were split down the middle. They were embroidered with cloud, crane, pomegranate and sipjangsaeng (ten immortal symbols) designs.
 
TTEOGUJI DAENGGI 떠구지댕기
This type of daenggi fixed the tteoguji (known also as geodumia gigantic structure carved of painted wood and added on top of eoyeo meori to create the famous keun meori haistyle) to the wig and thus hepled to mantain the complicated keun meori coiffure.
 
MAEGAE DAENGGI 매개댕기
This type of ribbon didn’t have s decorative purpose was used to secure and hold together the eoyeo haistyle and the eoyeom jokduri or som jokduri (a piece of stuffed silk that helped to keep the shape of eoyeo meori).
JOJ wearing the eoyeo haistyle with a red eoyeom jokduri 
 
JEBIBURI DAENGGI 제비부리댕기
Jebiburi daenggi was often worn by unmarried princesses to decorate and mantain their braid. It used to be decorated with golden (sometimes silver) patterns to show the royal status of its wearer. The recognition mark is the pointed endings from which the ribbon got its name. 

 
MALTTUK DAENGGI 말뚝댕기
Malttuk daenggi was similar to jebiburi daenggi with its golden decorations of flowers, animals and characters. The main difference between them is their shape – jebiburi ribbon had pointed ends whereas malttuk daenggi’s ends are rectangular. 
 
MOKPAN DAENGGI 목판댕기
Another type of ribbon worn by unmarried noblewoman similar to jebiburi daenggi.
 
GOI DAENGGI 고이댕기
This ribbon was used in the northwestern province during weddings and birthday celebrations. In comparison to other types of ribbons it used to be longer and unlike other daenggi this one is known for its colourful embroideries of animals, flowers or nature.
 
JJOK DAENNGI 쪽댕기
Jjok daenggi was placed into the chignon of jjokjin meori to better mantain the haistyle. The colour and material again varied according to age, social status and occassion.
 Young women wore red, older women black and white was typical for funeral.
JOJ wearing blue jjok daenggi while her mother wears black one
 
NEGADAK DAENGGI AND PATIP DAENGGI 팥잎댕기
These daenggi were worn by gungnyeo or court ladies. Patip daenggi was used by musuri and with saeang meori.
 
GULLAE DAENGGI 굴레댕기
It was a part of a gulle, a traditional headgear worn by Joseon children up to 5 years of age. It was mostly worn by young girls in the upper class for warmth and style.
BAETSSI DAENGGI 배씨 댕기
Baetssi means “pit of a pear” and the name of the ornament was thusly derived from it shape.  Actually, this hair accessory is also a type of daenggi. Nowadays, the material varies, however, originally the baetssi daenggi was made of thin, cloth-like material or soft material like cotton stuffed into colored cloth and thusly looked like a small piece of ribbon placed on top of the head to protect the child from illness and misfortunes.
This isn’t by no means a final list of ribbons and it may be extended in the future. I only chose to include the most common and and those about which I managed to gather enough information.
 
Sources:
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