THE JOSEON FASHION SHOW – LEE SOON EDITION PART 6 – YUNGBOK AND CHEOLLIK

8) THE DRAGON CHEOLLIK

There are basically many types of military uniforms worn by the king and his officials in Joseon Dynasty, however, the most dinstinctive of them are certainly the gugunbok (구군복) which I introduced a couple of weeks ago and the yungbok (융복) which is the attire we have seen LS wearing for sparring, hunting or shooting already many times. Actually, both robes are quite similar in many regards, however, the main distinguishing feature is that the gugunbok consists of  jeonbok (a sleeveless vest) while the yungbok lacks it.
Just as the gugunbok yungbok was worn for diplomatic trips and in wartimes but also by officials for their military exams or the male members of the royal family when participating in sporting and leasure activities such as sword fight, archery, polo or hunting. Originally, it composed of a rip (hat)cheollik (overcoat), gwangdahoi (a waist strap) and hwa(boots), however, the final composition may vary depending on the purpose.
For his sparring match with his cousin/uncle LS chooses a blue cheollik adorned by golden yongbo (dragon insignia) on his chest, back and shoulders known as sajoeryongbo (사조룡보,  a four-toed dragon emblems) representing his station as the crown prince. This overcoat is also called cheolrik, chulik, cheonik or cheomni.

Usually, there is added another layer under it called jungchimak (another overcoat) but LS wears only a simple jeogori under his cheollik.The garment had two fuctions: an underwear for danryeong (a coat worn by officials on military and diplomatic trips and when the coat was removed cheolik served as an appropriate military wear) or an upperwear as military uniform. However, the robe wasn’t only specific for kings and government officers, women wore it, too, and in certain stages of the Joseon era it was used by average soldiers and common people who could afford it, as well.

It has an upper and lower part whose ratio changed from time to time. The pleated skirt is the indentifying feature of cheollik and it’s firmly attached to the waist. The pleats enhance the freedom of movement allowing its wearer more flexibility. 

The neckline was designed into the typical right-angled straight collar called jikryeong and decorated by a dongjeong (white collar strip). The sleeves were typically wide nevertheless their width varied depending on the time period. LS’s sleeves are covered by black gaiters bearing intricate dragon patterns and fastened by a cloth string.

A dae (belt) and a gwangdae(wide waist belt with intricate decorations) are bound together and fastened at the back to mantain the attire.

Turquoise baji(trousers) and high boots(hwa) complemet the outfit.

His hair are pulled on the top of his head into a sangtu protected by a clasp. A manggeon (망건, headband made of horse hair) covered by a bandana and a pair of gwanja (관자, buttons) are used to mantain the hairstyle.

 
9) THE MARRIAGE NEGOTIATION HANBOK

When a crown prince wants to choose his own bride he needs to do during an undercover mission – At least this crown prince has to.
For the secret visit by his future father-in-law LS choses again a less formal hanbok – A silver-grey dopo (an overcoat with wide flapping sleeves) covers a concealed jeogori (a jacket or a shirt).
The overcoat is overlapped by a gorgeous multi-coloured sleeveless vest with an intricate embroidery which combines flower and kanji motives called dapho that is tied together by a matching blue otgoreum and a complementing git (collar or neckline) this time sans the dongjeong (white collar strip). The dopo and the dapho are fixed by a black jaejodae (a tasseled cord tied around the waist).
LS wears a gat (hat) adorned with a string of gemstones knows as gatkeun which reveals his aristocratic backround.
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6 comments

  1. His clothes are so gorgeous, oh my gosh. I want to wear them, haha.
    Reading this reminds me of when I watched my first k-drama, Queen Seondeok, and obsessively took pictures of almost every dress she ever wore. I remember back then how I wished I knew what the names of the clothing were and their functions… where has your website been all my life!?

  2. Yes, I think that obssesion is the right word to describe my state of mind right now :-). Frankly, I thought about naming this blog feedingmyobsession instead by feedingmyprocrastination sounded better ;-).

    So your first drama was QSD? Mine was Goong almost 7 years ago (I can’t even believe that number) ! I haven’t watched QSD and probably never will – 62 episodes is too long for me and I have a strict “30 eps max” policy. However, I read some positive feedbacks about that drama from my fellow Faithlings on soompi 🙂

    1. As much as I loved QSD, I never want to watch 62 episodes of anything again, lol. It was waaaay to long. I usually won’t watch a show if its more than 24 episodes, though I might make an exception for around 30 if its really good.
      I saw Goong about half a year ago. I think I’ve been watching k-dramas for 3-4 yrs now. I have Hulu to thank for that – I just stumbled onto QSD on there – and then I was hooked.
      Are you watching other dramas as well as JoJ? I haven’t been watching as many dramas of late, but I am watching Gu Family Book (mostly for Choi Jin Hyuk, hehe) and occasionally Dating Agency: Cyrano (though that show has been kinda slow of late).

  3. I’d really anticipated TGFB and watched the first 2 episodes but after LSG (I totally love him in MGIAG and K2H – a couple of my all time favourite kdramas) and Suzy appeared I simply lost interest (but I always check the new stills of the sexy Gumiho Daddy :-)) ) because I simply couldn’t see any chemistry between them other than that of older brother-younger sister relationship plus JOJ leaves me completely emotionally drained to watch any other drama. I think that I’ll be in another kdrama slump until Heirs start to air in September just like what happened me after Faith.

    Other than kdramas I check on Last Cinderella and Game of Thrones just ended (I’m still not over the Red Wedding :-(, my poor heart ) . I’m really looking foward to Da Mo Yao – I have a strict “no mainland China drama” policy (I only watch twdramas) but I can’t wait for this one because it has a happy end unlike JOJ and it appears to be a dream of every historical romance addict 🙂

  4. Yeah, the romance in TGFB is cute but not much more.
    I watched Once Upon a Time obsessively. I love fairytales, so I was destined to love it haha.
    Ooo, I haven’t heard of Da Mo Yao, but I love historical romance. I’ll have to look into it when it comes out. Heirs has Lee Min-Ho right? I’ll be checking that one out too ;D. I wish Mandate of Heaven was allowed to air over here. I love Song Ji-Hyo. I’ve only seen her in Goong… and Running Man, of course (which I love 🙂 )

    1. Yes, I remember her from Goong vividly. I haven’t been watching Mandate of Heaven , the last time I saw her act was in the movie Jakal Is Coming and suffice it to say she was the only saving grace of that movie.

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