8) THE DRAGON CHEOLLIK
There are basically many types of military uniforms worn by the king and his officials in Joseon Dynasty, however, the most dinstinctive of them are certainly the gugunbok (구군복) which I introduced a couple of weeks ago and the yungbok (융복) which is the attire we have seen LS wearing for sparring, hunting or shooting already many times. Actually, both robes are quite similar in many regards, however, the main distinguishing feature is that the gugunbok consists of jeonbok (a sleeveless vest) while the yungbok lacks it.
Just as the gugunbok yungbok was worn for diplomatic trips and in wartimes but also by officials for their military exams or the male members of the royal family when participating in sporting and leasure activities such as sword fight, archery, polo or hunting. Originally, it composed of a rip (hat), cheollik (overcoat), gwangdahoi (a waist strap) and hwa(boots), however, the final composition may vary depending on the purpose.
For his sparring match with his cousin/uncle LS chooses a blue cheollik adorned by golden yongbo (dragon insignia) on his chest, back and shoulders known as sajoeryongbo (사조룡보, a four-toed dragon emblems) representing his station as the crown prince. This overcoat is also called cheolrik, chulik, cheonik or cheomni.
Usually, there is added another layer under it called jungchimak (another overcoat) but LS wears only a simple jeogori under his cheollik.The garment had two fuctions: an underwear for danryeong (a coat worn by officials on military and diplomatic trips and when the coat was removed cheolik served as an appropriate military wear) or an upperwear as military uniform. However, the robe wasn’t only specific for kings and government officers, women wore it, too, and in certain stages of the Joseon era it was used by average soldiers and common people who could afford it, as well.
It has an upper and lower part whose ratio changed from time to time. The pleated skirt is the indentifying feature of cheollik and it’s firmly attached to the waist. The pleats enhance the freedom of movement allowing its wearer more flexibility.
The neckline was designed into the typical right-angled straight collar called jikryeong and decorated by a dongjeong (white collar strip). The sleeves were typically wide nevertheless their width varied depending on the time period. LS’s sleeves are covered by black gaiters bearing intricate dragon patterns and fastened by a cloth string.
A dae (belt) and a gwangdae(wide waist belt with intricate decorations) are bound together and fastened at the back to mantain the attire.
Turquoise baji(trousers) and high boots(hwa) complemet the outfit.
His hair are pulled on the top of his head into a sangtu protected by a clasp. A manggeon (망건, headband made of horse hair) covered by a bandana and a pair of gwanja (관자, buttons) are used to mantain the hairstyle.
9) THE MARRIAGE NEGOTIATION HANBOK
When a crown prince wants to choose his own bride he needs to do during an undercover mission – At least this crown prince has to.
For the secret visit by his future father-in-law LS choses again a less formal hanbok – A silver-grey dopo (an overcoat with wide flapping sleeves) covers a concealed jeogori (a jacket or a shirt).
The overcoat is overlapped by a gorgeous multi-coloured sleeveless vest with an intricate embroidery which combines flower and kanji motives called dapho that is tied together by a matching blue otgoreum and a complementing git (collar or neckline) this time sans the dongjeong (white collar strip). The dopo and the dapho are fixed by a black jaejodae (a tasseled cord tied around the waist).
LS wears a gat (hat) adorned with a string of gemstones knows as gatkeun which reveals his aristocratic backround.
This is another beautiful hanbok worthy of LS’s fashionista status.