22) THE BLUE SANG GOONG GOWN
When a gungnyeo (a court maid) had received the king’s favour (he slept with her) she was promoted to a high ranking court official known as the “favoured sang goong”. As such she was entitled to a residence and a sang goong (상궁, high rank of a court lady) of her own, however, this title didn’t make her a part of the royal family nor a royal concubine.
After becoming a sang goong JOJ starts to wear a simple blue dangui (a ceremonial jacket that the ladies of the royal court wore for everyday activities) with a dongjeong (white collar strip), white kudongs (a different coloured cuffs on the end of sleeves), a pink git (fabric that trims the collar) and a matching otgoreum which holds a butterfly pendant called a norigae.
A contrasting purple chima (skirt) complemets the whole outfit.
With the change of her status JOJ changes her haistyle as well, the daenggi meori with its daenggi-adorned braids is no longer there. A chignon coiffure known as jjokjin meori has replaced the simple braid.
The bun is maintained by a dark blue jjok daenggi (a special ribbon for the jjokjin meori chignon), a gold binyeo (a long hairpin) and dwikkoji of various materials and shapes. Apart from the decorative and practical uses these ornaments served as an important indicator of one’s social status.
JOJ also wears a silver single ring (a panji) on one of her fingers.
23) THE JEOGORI SANG GOONG GOWN
Dangui is probably most known for being worn by the female members of the royal family and high ranking court ladies but many people forget that the dangui could be easily taken off in private and it isn’t a sokjeogori (undershirt) that is hidden under this long upper jacket but a regular jeogori such as JOJ wears here with the purple gil (the largest part of the jeogori). A blue git with silver floral patterns, a dongjeong and a red otgoreum complement the jeogori which JOJ also wear later in the series after becoming the Queen only with adifferent chima.
Her jjokjin meori haistyle is decorated with the same gold binyeo and dwikkoji.
It’s the perfect gown for leasure time and stolen moments with her lover in the privacy of her room.