24)THE BUTTERFLY DANGUI GOWN
JOJ has the love and grace of the king Sukjong therefore her status is elevated again short after her promotion to a high ranked court lady and she becomes a concubine with the title Jang Sukwon. Sukwon (숙원, 淑媛) known as the Royal Noble Consort rank 4 was the lowest level among the concubine ranks, however, they enjoyed greater privileges than the favoured sang goong for example their income and the number of their servants increased, they recieved their own palace and most importantly they became a part of the royal family unlike the favoured sang goong.
The elevation of her status shows at JOJ’s wardrobe as well – the materials are more expensive, the decorations more elaborate and the ornaments more luxurious.
Numerous butterflies of various sizes and colours decorate her milky dangui because the geumbak (golden patterns) was reserved only for the ceremonial jackets of queens and princesses plus the Queen was entitled to wear the bo (dragon insignia) on her robe just like the king.
There are, of course, the white kudongs (sleeves cuffs), the ever-present dongjeong(white collar strip) and a strawberry otgoreum (cloth strap) that matches the colour of the chima (skirt).
The design of her skirt has changed, too. The plain chima are replaced with more elaborate seuran chima which is a ceremonial skirt with geumbak (supplementary golden weft).
Besides the norigae hung on the otgoreum which serves both as an ornament and a good luck charm JOJ wears an innovative garakji which is unlike panji (a single ring) a double ring worn only by married.
Her hair is braided and pulled back into a chignon adorned by a golden bongjam (a phoenix binyeo favoured by princesses, queens and concubines) and many intricate and beautiful floral-shaped dwikkoji.
And last but not least the most gorgeous cheopji ( a headdress ornament for married women made strictly from metals) that I’ve ever seen decorates the top of her head.
This style is called the jjokjin meori and worn by married women and high ranked court ladies.
You really can’t blame Queen InHyun for being jealous of JOJ because everytime she shows up she beats her fair and square on the fashion front. It’s no wonder that Jang Ok Jung received the attribute of Hee which means “radiant” after achieving the status of Bin.
25)THE SALMON DANGUI GOWN
Another gorgeous outfit that JOJ wears during her days as Jang Sukwon consists of an elegant salmon dangui with silver print and intricate floral embroideries that also adorn the git (fabric trimming the collar) along the dongjoeng (a white collar strip).
The ceremonial jacket is tied together by a red otgoreum with a norigae (pendant).
What I especially love about this gown is the way the dangui flaps and kudongs and edges of the blue chima are cut out and punctuated by those sublime embroideries.
I realized that JOJ wears a ring, probably a panji, but I haven’t manage to make any good screencap of it.
Her jjokjin meori is adorned by a beautiful baetssi daenggi ( an ornament for the top of one’s head and usually worn only by maidens, however, as you might have noticed this drama doesn’t take these types of distinction so seriouly).
An opulent coral binyeo and dwikkoji maintain and adorn her chignon.