12) THE BLUE HUNTING ROBE
The Blue Hunting Robe might just be my favourite among Lee Soon’s vast collection of yungbok (융복) which is the attire we have seen LS wearing for sparring, hunting or shooting already many times.
Just as the gugunbok yungbok was worn for diplomatic trips and in wartimes but also by officials for their military exams or the male members of the royal family when participating in sporting and leasure activities such as sword fight, archery, polo or hunting. Originally, it composed of a rip (hat), cheollik (overcoat), gwangdahoi (a waist strap) and hwa(boots), however, the final composition may vary depending on the purpose.
When he goes hunting this time for real LS chooses a navy cheollik, a military overcoat known also as cheolrik, chulik, cheonik or cheomni. Usually, there is added another layer under it called jungchimak (another overcoat) but LS again wears only a simple jeogori under it. It has an upper and lower part whose ratio changed from time to time. The pleated skirt is the indentifying feature of cheollik and it’s firmly attached to the waist. The pleats enhance the freedom of movement allowing its wearer more flexibility which helps him to better fight off the assassins.
The neckline was designed into the typical right-angled straight collar called jikryeong and decorated by a gold-patterned git (fabric that covers the collar) a dongjeong (white collar strip). The sleeves were typically wide nevertheless their width varied depending on the time period. LS’s sleeves are covered by black gaiters bearing intricate silver dragon patterns and fastened by cloth strings.
A dae (belt) decorated by the same symbols is bound together and fastened at the back to mantain the attire. Turquoise baji (trousers) and high boots (hwa) complemet the outfit.
His hair are pulled on the top of his head into a sangtu protected by a clasp called chigwan (a topknot cover). A manggeon (망건, headband made of horse hair) covered by a bandana and a pair of gwanja (관자, buttons) are used to mantain the hairstyle.
13) THE LIME HANBOK
Again undercover, LS goes with a less formal hanbok – A silver-grey dopo (an overcoat with wide flapping sleeves) covers a concealed jeogori (a jacket or a shirt).
The overcoat is overlapped by a lime sleeveless vest with an intricate floral embroidery called jeonbok that is tied together by a contrasting brown otgoreum and a dongjeong (white collar strip). The dopo and the jeonbok are fixed by a blackjaejodae (a tasseled cord tied around the waist).
He wears a pair of taesahye (태사혜) – a very expensive low-cut shoes for men made from animal skin with scroll decoration and lined with silk inside.
His hair are pulled on the top of his head into a sangtu protected by a clasp called chigwan (a topknot cover). A manggeon (망건, headband made of horse hair) covered by a bandana and a pair of gwanja (관자, buttons) are used to mantain the hairstyle. LS wears a gat (hat) adorned with a string of gemstones knows as gatkeun which reveals his aristocratic backround.