27) THE VIOLET SUKWON GOWN
This dress is the last one JOJ wears as Jang Sukwon during her meeting with LS when he announces her promotion to Jang Hee Bin giving her the name Bin aka radiant.
Her gorgeous dangui made of an expensive violet fabric is decorated with intricate embroideries of lotus and water lily which represents JOJ perseverance. The parallel and symbolism between them are very fitting as JOJ has come from humble origin she managed to shine brightly just as the lotus which sprouts in the mud but despite the adverse enviroment grows into a beautiful flower admired by many.
There are, of course, the ever-present dongjeong (white collar strip) and a strawberry otgoreum (cloth strap) that matches the colour of her seuran chima, a long wide elaborate skirt decorated with embossed gold at the hem.
Her hair is braided and pulled back into a chignon adorned by a golden bongjam (a phoenix binyeo favoured by princesses, queens and concubines) and many beautiful floral-shaped dwikkoji.
An elegant cheopji ( a headdress ornament for married women made strictly from metals) adorns the top of her head.
This style is called the jjokjin meori and worn by married women and high ranked court ladies.
The reason why JOJ chose this splendid hanbok for her midnight meeting with LS is to take the focus off her exhausted state after the miscarriage of their child and to keep it a secret from her husband for his benefit so he wouldn’t have to suffer fromt the heartbreak. What she doesn’t know is that LS already knows and is determined to get justice for the loss of their unborn child.
28) THE WHITE RAMIE SOKOT GOWN
The White Ramie Sokot Gown represents JOJ’s vast collection of undergarments or sokotand she wears this lingerie under her Magenta Concubine Gown. It consists of an elegant sokchima (underskirt) whose rich pleated fabric is gathered into wide chima margi (a skirtband) that fasten over the breast, much like a tube top and is tied with a chima geun (a skirt strap).
The transparent lingerie top known as sokjeogori covers her upper body but at the same time reveals the milky skin of her collar bone and hands. Unlike the sokjeoksam which is fastened by cloth buttons in the front, the flaps of the sokjeogori is bound together by goreum or otgoreum (a cloth strap).
The advantages of the ramie plant and fabrics have been known to people all around the world for thousands of years. Ramie is finer than hemp, however, more versatile. The fibers of high-quality ramie are silky, with a high sheen and creamy white color. High-quality ramie exhibits many desirable qualities. Its absorbs water and dries out more quickly than other fabrics. It’s brilliance is unsurpassed among similar fabrics such as flax, hemp or jute. The fact that it is three times stronger than hemp increases its value for home decor and clothing. . It was also used in mummy cloths in Egypt during the period 5000 – 3000 BC, and has been known as China grass and grown in China for many centuries.
JOJ’s hair is arranged into a simplified version of jjokjin meori meaning that her braid is pulled back into a jjok (a chignon) which she adorns with a phoenix-shaped known as bongjam and two floral dwikkoji for better maintainance.