TJFS – JANG OK JUNG EDITION PART 15

27) THE VIOLET SUKWON GOWN


This dress is the last one JOJ wears as Jang Sukwon during her meeting with LS when he announces her promotion to Jang Hee Bin giving her the name Bin aka radiant.

Her gorgeous dangui made of an expensive violet fabric is decorated with intricate embroideries of lotus and water lily which represents JOJ perseverance. The parallel and symbolism between them are very fitting as JOJ has come from humble origin she managed to shine brightly just as the lotus which sprouts in the mud but despite the adverse enviroment grows into a beautiful flower admired by many.  

There are, of course, the ever-present dongjeong (white collar strip) and a strawberry otgoreum (cloth strap) that matches the colour of her seuran chima, a long wide elaborate skirt decorated with embossed gold at the hem.
Her hair is braided and pulled back into a chignon adorned by a golden bongjam (a phoenix binyeo favoured by princesses, queens and concubines) and many beautiful floral-shaped dwikkoji

An elegant cheopji ( a headdress ornament for married women made strictly from metals) adorns the top of her head. 

This style is called the jjokjin meori and worn by married women and high ranked court ladies. 

The reason why JOJ chose this splendid hanbok for her midnight meeting with LS is to take the focus off her exhausted state after the miscarriage of their child and to keep it a secret from her husband for his benefit so he wouldn’t have to suffer fromt the heartbreak. What she doesn’t know is that LS already knows and is determined to get justice for the loss of their unborn child.
 
 

28) THE WHITE RAMIE SOKOT GOWN


The White Ramie Sokot Gown represents JOJ’s vast collection of undergarments or sokotand she wears this lingerie under her Magenta Concubine Gown. It consists of an elegant sokchima (underskirt) whose rich pleated fabric is gathered into wide chima margi (a skirtbandthat fasten over the breast, much like a tube top and is tied with a chima geun (a skirt strap).
The transparent lingerie top known as sokjeogori covers her upper body but at the same time reveals the milky skin of her collar bone and hands. Unlike the sokjeoksam which is fastened by cloth buttons in the front, the flaps of the sokjeogori is bound together by goreum or otgoreum (a cloth strap).
The advantages of the ramie plant and fabrics have been known to people all around the world for thousands of years. Ramie is finer than hemp, however, more versatile. The fibers of high-quality ramie are silky, with a high sheen and creamy white color. High-quality ramie exhibits many desirable qualities. Its absorbs water and dries out more quickly than other fabrics. It’s brilliance is unsurpassed among similar fabrics such as flax, hemp or jute. The fact that it is three times stronger than hemp increases its value for home decor and clothing. . It was also used in mummy cloths in Egypt during the period 5000 – 3000 BC, and has been known as China grass and grown in China for many centuries.

JOJ’s hair is arranged into a simplified version of jjokjin meori meaning that her braid is pulled back into a jjok (a chignon) which she adorns with a phoenix-shaped known as bongjam and two floral dwikkoji for better maintainance.

Sources:
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8 comments

  1. The lotus & lily patterns on her gown are beautiful and I love that it symbolizes her strength and beauty. I’m a sucker for symbolism and deeper meanings. 😀

  2. Hey, just a little tidbit of info – I just started my own blog, hehe!! It’s mainly reviews on stuff I like: books, movies, k-dramas, etc. I’m really a beginner at this whole blogging thing, so it isn’t that amazing looking right now, but hopefully in time I’ll get better. 😉

    1. That’s amazing, Hope! Good luck! You know I’ve wanted this blog to be about series and movies as well and in the future I will add some reviews and recaps of mine own but as I was totally crazy over Joseon fashion it turned like this. Give me your link I’m definitely going to check it out 🙂

      1. http://www.justwaytooboss.blogspot.com
        And I’ll definitely be interested in reading your future reviews and recaps, 😀

  3. Hi! I have a question. 🙂 do all royal women have to wear the hanbok with the dragons on their shoulders? Can they wear a different type of hanbok?

    1. It depends on what you mean by the term “all royal women” because there were many women who could be considered “royal” – already the lowest rank of a concubine called sukwon became a part of the royal family. Of course, there were also other women such as the king’s cousins, nieces, Queen Consort, Queen Dowager, the Great Queen Dowager, his sisters…However, only women who held the official title of “Queen” could have worn the yongbo (dragon emblem) on their dangui.
      I hope I answered your question and if there is anything more you want to ask. Please, do 🙂

      1. Ok, then if the queen chose not to wear the yongbo, it would be ok right?

      2. In the privacy of her chamber maybe, however, if she didn’t wear the yongbo during her day it would be seen as a huge faux pas. You see, just as with the gold binyeo it was an indentifying feature of her status and as the position of the Queen was the most coveted one by all the Joseon noblewomen, who would do anything to claim the Queen’s seat, it’s highly improbable they would do something to break the court code and tradition and thusly threaten their own position.

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